Chipotle, thy name is hypocrisy: misses the microbiological mark again

I’ve never been a Chipotle fan. Amy got a hankering for the stuff when she was pregnant, which I ascribed to something like a pickle yearning.

Now the hackey-sack burrito-eating hipsters that South Park so effectively slammed four years ago are hitting out at factory farming scarecrowand big food – except Chipotle is big food.

But, the chain – and it is a chain, with more than 1500 storefronts and $800 million in revenue last year — never misses a chance to appropriate a trend.

According to The Atlantic, last week Chipotle released an animated short as a marketing campaign. Sites like The New York Times, NPRSlate, etc., posted the video, most with glowing endorsements (Bruce Horovitz at USA Today: “Chipotle is about to turn the ad world on its head“; Peter Weber at The Week: “It is the most beautiful, haunting infomercial you’ll ever see”; Carey Polis at The Huffington Post: “Chipotle Scarecrow Ad Will Make You Feel All the Feelings“; Neetzan Zimmerman atGawker“All other ads should just give up.”)

Local food, GMO-free, no antibiotics, animal welfare friendly, it’s all there.

chipotle.ad.1(1)But Chipotle misses the microbiological mark.

Chipotle, tell consumers what you are, not what you aren’t. Microbiologically speaking.

The video is available at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lUtnas5ScSE.

 

I prefer this one, from Funny or Die, and available at http://www.funnyordie.com/videos/da66b8f1aa/honest-scarecrow.

Food safety: some talk, some do, you’ve got to live and breathe this stuff, day in and day out

“Food safety is only as safe as the weakest link.”

Maybe I said that, but Fresh Plaza says I did to the Produce Marketing Association in Sydney last month. Here’s some other random soundbites:

“Embracing the science behind microbiologically safe food is the first john.o.brotherjpegstep to creating a safer food environment in all businesses.”

 “Food safety is the responsibility of whoever produces the food.”

“You can’t eliminate foodborne illnesses but you can limit it.”

“Have someone in your company who knows about food safety so they can ask the right questions and make sure you use different forms of media to communicate your message to employees.”

“Be the bug” so they can completely understand the microbiological science behind food safety, once this is done business owners must “compel, rather than educate” their employees to introduce a no-nonsense policy towards food safety within their working environment.

“Make food safety a part of your branding… and make your inspections public. Government safety standards are the minimum requirements so
tumblr_mmrgiiULwm1qaxm50o1_250if you can exceed these priorities its win/win for you and your consumer.”

“You’ve got to live and breathe this stuff, day in and day out.” 

Farmer—regulate thyself; ag takes food safety into its own hands, now market it so consumers can choose

There’s plenty of talk amongst policy wonks about various food safety reforms, but that’s been going on for years: people eat three times a day.

Erin Brodwin writes in Scientific American that consumers look for safer food, especially as the public becomes more aware of
marketing-strategy-win-new-clients1bacterial outbreaks, and farms in the past seven years have led the charge to respond.

At least 15 years in my direct experience.

Consumers have begun to demand safer products via their collective buying power, says Greg West, president and CEO of National Pasteurized Eggs in Lansing, Ill. West’s company, which produces pasteurized eggs in an effort to eliminate Salmonella, has seen consumer demand for its product double in the past year. And West is more than happy to supply the safer eggs—sales, he said, have skyrocketed since the Salmonella outbreaks in the 1990s and a more recent flare-up in 2006 that made national headlines.

Preventing bacterial outbreaks is a matter of reducing risk, West says. Some cases of Salmonella-related illness, he notes, could have been prevented simply by cooking them thoroughly. Unfortunately, many people don’t cook eggs completely; over-easy, poached and soft-boiled eggs are all bacterial vectors. “Why not stop the risk before it enters the supply chain?” he says. All of the company’s eggs go through a hot-water pasteurization bath. Afterward, each egg is sealed with a wax coating to prevent potential future contamination and stamped with a red circle “P” to denote that they have been pasteurized.

Other companies, however, can’t bathe their products in bacteria-killing solution as a matter of practicality. Earthbound Farm in San Juan Bautista, Calif., which lost $70 million as a result of an E. coli outbreak in its fresh spinach in 2006, began a massive safety overhaul in 2006 that incorporated vigorous bacterial testing with innovative safety methods such as UV radiation. “At the end of the day you can’t rely on government or academia,” says Earthbound Farm head of food safety, Will Daniels. “You have to have relationships with the suppliers and know the process.”

The California Strawberry Commission has made products safer not by implementing new technologies, rather they better educate farmers, says Andrew Kramer, director of grower education. Strawberries are harvested year-round, so the field is continually replete with workers; as a labor-intensive crop, strawberries mandated a people-centered approach to safety.

For example, when the company discovered that workers were taking breaks in the field rather than in designated areas to the side of the crops, it also found that food trash residue was diminishing crop quality and attracting animals to growing areas. Kramer’s team found that animals and bacteria attracted to scraps would often invade crops as well. Commission experts soon realized that gaps in communication between commissioners, growers and farmers were to blame—growers
checklist-wholewere not telling farmers about break protocol, and some weren’t even supplying chairs in dedicated eating locations. So commission experts began a series of training and education workshops in English and Spanish, and instructed growers to provide workers with portable chairs at a central location, preventing food scraps from attracting bacteria to crop sites. To tackle other field safety issues, directors of the grower education program came up with a food safety flip chart—a giant wooden how-to manual complete with diagrams and illustrations on field safety (the 4-foot one we came up with over 10 years ago and hung in a high traffic area in greenhouses is above, left). Farm safety educators use the chart during trainings, during which they instruct workers on everything from correct hand-washing practices how to identify a diseased crop before it infects the whole field.

These examples have been well-known for decades. Those growers that take food safety seriously and can back it up with data should market their safety efforts at retail so consumers can choose.

food.safe.culture.market

The world is our oyster – shellfish safety in Sydney

I got to deliver an opening keynote chat at the 9th International Conference on Molluscan Shellfish Safety in Sydney yesterday, with my usual refrain about how the best producers should be marketing their safety investments directly to consumers and retailers.

The crowd was an eclectic group of 200 producers, scientists, policy types and retailers from 30 countries, several of whom approached me and said, I sydney.rock.oysterread barfblog; they don’t say, “you look younger than I expected” anymore.

And after she officially opened the conference I got to stalk chat with New South Wales Minister for Primary Industries, Katrina Hodgkinson, about restaurant inspection disclosure in the state, including the Name and Shame website, and the voluntary posting of Scores on Doors, and whether the postings should become mandatory.

The NSW oyster industry is the State’s largest fishery by value employing more than 1500 people directly, and is primarily in regional areas contributing greatly to those economies.

“The NSW Government is a strong supporter of the State’s shellfish industry, through the provision of research and support services, by protecting water quality and by overseeing industry food safety programs,” Ms Hodgkinson said.

“We have a robust food safety management program for shellfish in place that has been in operation since 2000.

“As a result the shellfish industry in NSW has a good safety record,” Ms Hodgkinson said.

Poop label? Market food safety at retail, not fear

Food labels can be used to shock or shame, illuminate or inform, right-to-know versus hucksterism.

It’s mainly hucksterism. And sometimes fraud.

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration announced today that a federal judge has approved a consent decree of permanent injunction against Butterfly Bakery Inc., a bakery based in Clifton, New Jersey, and its Chicken_labelpresident, Brenda Isaac, for unlawfully distributing misbranded food products, such as muffins and snack cakes.     

Samples tested by both FDA and state officials over several years show that Butterfly Bakery’s product labeling was false and misleading.  For example, laboratory analysis showed that foods labeled as “sugar free” contained sugar, and that certain products contained as much as three times the amount of labeled/declared sugar, two times the amount of labeled/declared fat, and two times the amount of labeled/declared saturated fat.

In the UK, still reeling from food fraud involving horse meat, The Telegraph reports shoppers are seeking more validation about where their food comes from. However, many are bewildered by the variety of claims made by food packaging. The little red tractor that is plastered on many food products, together with claims such as “Freedom Food” and “free range” can be comforting when food supply chain safety is in doubt. But what do these logos really mean, and are you sometimes paying for more than just a misplaced sense of peace of mind? Products bearing these labels and claims often cost more, so it is worth checking whether you think it is worth it before adding to the total cost of your weekly shopping. Here is an explanation of some of the most common labels.

Lion Mark

The Lion Mark on eggs has become common since it was launched in 1998 by the British Egg Industry Council, and the administrators of the mark claim that it means that “eggs have been produced to the highest standards of food safety”. Most significantly, the hens have been vaccinated for salmonella. The eggs produced under the mark are independently audited and have a best-before date stamped on shell and pack.

However, the mark does not guarantee that hens are free range or have high welfare conditions, merely that the eggs are produced to minimum legal requirements. Standard eggs are from hens kept indoors in cages. The Compassion in World Farming report scored the minimum Lion code standards “very poorly” and said they generally ensured compliance only with minimum standards.

Red Tractor

The Red Tractor mark is stamped on a huge variety of farmed goods and claims to be run by “UK farmers, food producers and retailers working together”. Those who use it must pay royalties to the organisation in order to display its jaunty signage. Although people think that the tractor symbol guarantees that your food is British, this is not the case. If you are concerned Food-Labels-Organic-and-Naturalabout the geographical origin of your meat, you must look for a red tractor in conjunction with a Union Flag to guarantee it is from the UK. Other flags indicate that the food is from abroad.

Free range

Most free-range laying chickens are housed in barns and have access to outside land through “popholes”.

There is no legal definition of free-range pork, but it generally means pigs that have access to pasture and are born outside without stalls or crates.

Supermarket own standards

Some supermarkets have higher-than-minimum standards for their own meat. For example, Waitrose and M & S have welfare standards somewhat higher than the bare minimum, so their own-brand products will keep to these standards and may carry a logo to say so.

Labels that mean nothing at all

While all of the above labels have minimum standards attached, there are plenty of claims that supermarket labels use others purely for the feel-good factor, which mean nothing at all. “Natural”, “Country style”, “Farm fresh” and “Garden fresh” are some of these.

In the U.S., vegan advocacy group Physicians Committee for Responsible Medicine wants stronger regulation of feces in chicken and poop labels.

For me, information is good for those who want it and should be layered in recognition that different people want different levels of information. I want to know what a farmer or processor does to reduce or eliminate levels of dangerous microorganisms, the kind that make people barf. Market food safety at retail.

 

How foodborne illness impacts the economy

First it was nerdwallet, now it’s WalletBlog.

I didn’t know so many financial blogs existed with an interest in foodborne disease.

When an outbreak occurs in this the era of Facebook, Twitter, and streaming news on cell phones, millions of consumers know about it immediately and are likely to swear off the product involved for the foreseeable future.  Therefore, not only will the farm at which it originated almost certainly go bankrupt as a result, but the entire industry will suffer as well.

“Anytime there is an outbreak, sales go down,” said Dr. Douglas Powell, professor of food safety at Kansas State University.  “Any commodity … is only as good as its worst farm.”

According to Robert L. Scharff, a former economist for the US Food and Drug Administration and currently an assistant professor at the Ohio State University, foodborne illness costs the country roughly $152 billion annually. 

As Dr. Powell pointed out, “Any foodborne outbreak has effects far beyond the headlines.”

The question is what to do about this issue not only because our economy could obviously use a break, but also given the simple fact that, as Dr. Powell noted, it seems out of whack that “we’re supposed to be a developed country, and we have all this illness from something as basic as food.”

The answer, according to Dr. Powell, is to give consumers as much information as possible.  People simply have little way to tell whether the food they buy comes from farms that are microbiologically safe or not.  Denoting this on labels much like restaurants emphasize good inspection grades would be a good start, even though it would surely alienate industry bigwigs given that it would imply that certain foods aren’t actually safe to begin with.

Ultimately, some marketing reform is also going to be needed.  A perfect example of why is the case of organic food.  Production issues, such as organic farmers being more conscious of their environmental impact, surely play into its popularity, but its primary driver is the fact that people believe it to be safer than non-organic food, according to Dr. Powell.  While marketers don’t out and out say so, they certainly hint at this falsity.  We just need to point the marketing machine in the right direction.

Dr. Powell is helping lead this effort with his aptly-titled barfblog, which discusses food issues in a way that will keep the attention of today’s ADD society.  Who knows, maybe we can make foodborne illness education the next “in” celebrity cause and in doing so not only save lives, but also save the industry billions of dollars, thereby reducing food prices for everyone and helping our ailing economy.  

God don’t have much to do with it; food safety outbreaks are not flukes of faith; buying might be

A cantaloupe farmer linked to the listeria-related deaths of 36 people and the illnesses of at least 146 in 2011 says the outbreak was “something Mother Nature did. We didn’t have anything to do with it.”

Eric Jensen, the fourth-generation produce grower who runs what’s left of Colorado-based Jensen Farms with his brother Ryan, told the Dallas Morning News, “We’re not selling anything,” adding that he had to lay off his staff of 15 in December. “We’re just sitting still right now. We hope to figure out a way to come out of it. We’ve got four generations worth of work.”

Whatever your god or belief, I’ve yet to see divine intervention as a cause of foodborne illness. Instead, illnesses and outbreaks are frighteningly consistent in their underlying causes: a culmination of a small series of mistakes that, over time, results in illness and death. After-the-fact investigations usually conclude, why didn’t this happen earlier, with all the mistakes going on?

This is no different from other failures such as BP, Bhopal and the space shuttle Challenger: technological sophistication is easily superseded by the vagaries of human behavior and belief.

So while Jensen Farms languishes in bankruptcy and self-affirming fairy-tales, and distributors and retailers ask themselves, why did we rely on such lousy food safety assurances, California growers are trying to develop an industry-wide, mandatory food safety plan.

But based on early indications, California growers are setting up a flawed system that promotes self-satisfaction and soundbites over safety.

Tying a brand or commodity – lettuce, tomatoes, meat — to the lowest common denominator of government inspections is a recipe for failure. The Pinto automobile also met government standards – didn’t help much in the court of public opinion.

The best growers, processors and retailers will far exceed minimal government standards, will proactively test to verify their food safety systems are working, will transparently publicize those results and will brag about their excellent food safety by marketing at retail so consumers can actually choose safe food.

Learning from strawberries, spinach and melons: promote safe food practice before the next outbreak

In 1996, California strawberry growers were wrongly fingered as the source of a cyclospora outbreak that sickened over 1,000 people across North America; the culprit was Guatemalan raspberries.

After losing $15-20 million in reduced strawberry sales, the California strawberry growers decided the best way to minimize the effects of an outbreak – real or alleged – was to make sure all their growers knew some food safety basics and there was some verification mechanism. The next time someone said, “I got sick and it was your strawberries,” the growers could at least say, “We don’t think it was us, and here’s everything we do to produce the safest product we can.”

In Sept. 2006, an outbreak of E. coli O157:H7 killed four and sickened at least 200 across the U.S. This was documented outbreak 29 linked to leafy greens, but apparently the tipping point for growers to finally get religion about commodity-wide food safety, following the way of their farmer friends in California, 10 years later.

In 2011, Jensen Farms, an eastern Colorado cantaloupe grower produced melons that killed 32 and sickened at least 146 with listeria in 28 states. One grower trashed the reputation of the revered Rocky Ford Melon: plantings this year are expected to be down 75 per cent.

Now the Rocky Ford Growers Association has turned to government-delivered food safety audits rather than third-party audits, and committed to emboss a QR code on every melon it slates for retail sale. This QR code will tell consumers where the melon was grown, harvested, and prepared.

Location doesn’t mean safety. Include the production details.

In Aug. 2011, Oregon health officials confirmed that deer droppings caused an E. coli O157:H7 outbreak traced to strawberries, many sold at roadsides, that sickened 14 people and killed one.

So when NPR asks, Are local salad greens safer than packaged salad greens, it’s the wrong question.

It’s not whether large is safer than local, conventional safer than organic: it’s about the poop, and what any grower is doing to manage the poop. Or risks.

Any farm, processor, retailer or restaurant can be held accountable for food production – and increasingly so with smartphones, facebook and new toys down the road. Whether it’s a real or imaginary outbreak of foodborne illness, consumers will rightly react based on the information available.

Rather than adopt a defensive tone, any food provider should proudly proclaim – brag – about everything they do to enhance food safety. Explanations after the discovery of some mystery ingredient, some nasty sanitation, sorta suck.

Microbial food safety should be marketed at retail so consumers actually have a choice and hold producers and processors – conventional, organic or otherwise – to a standard of honesty. Be honest with consumers and disclose what’s in any food; if restaurant inspection results can be displayed on a placard via a QR code read by smartphones when someone goes out for a meal, why not at the grocery store? Or the school lunch? For any food, link to web sites detailing how the food was produced, processed and safely handled. Manage the poop, manage the risk, brag about the brand.

Band of Mexican produce growers wants to market food safety at retail … soon

I’m still waiting for some brave food producer to start marketing food safety at retail because I don’t care if lettuce and spinach are local, natural, sustainable, and was produced without harming any animals: I do care if it has E. coli and I want to know what a brand is doing about it. At the grocery store. Where I decide what brand to buy.

A group of Mexican produce producers is, according to The Packer, planning to invest in the issue with the Eleven Rivers Growers food safety and quality assurance label.

And while starting with the supply chain, the group wants the labels at retail by 2013.

“We believe that we will have 22 or 23 producers (under the label),” said Fernando Mariscal, cooperative representative. “Most important, we are expecting to have production around 40 million 25-pound boxes for this winter season.

"We’ll start the process with weekly inspections that are not going to be announced,” Mariscal said.

The unannounced part is good, but Eleven Rivers is going to rely on third-party auditors like Primus Labs or Scientific Certification Systems, or anyone who can meet the standards, which could be bad. Better to have some in-house expertise to make use of the audits are really create a strong food safety culture, one strong enough and backed up with date to support safety claims at retail.

Grower-shippers pay about five cents a box for the labels. Those who pass the inspections will add Eleven Rivers Growers to their existing labels. Any who fail lose the label until the causes are addressed.

For now, the label will only go as far as the pallet level — basically, a 4-inch tape around pallets.

“It’s our aim to reach the supply chain this year,” Mariscal said.

“Next year we hope to reach the final consumer, label each box and be present at the supermarkets.”

Because of that limit, the cooperative will push to keep pallet quantities together.

“We’re trying to show that pallet has been carefully monitored from crop to distribution, that it’s been well-handled all the way. Because some of the shipments will go to other suppliers, like terminal markets or brokers, we have to be sure it remains within its quality conditions.”

Commodities include a mix of tomatoes, bell peppers, chilies, cucumbers, eggplant, green beans and squash. Plans call for adding more crops over time.

Among the participating members in the nonprofit cooperative are Del Campo y Asociados; Tricar Sales; Triple H; Grupo GR; De La Costa; CAADES Sinaloa; Agroindustrias Tombell; Agricola de Gala; Agricola EPSA; and Agroexportadora del Noreste.

If an E. coli O1157:H7 vaccine for cattle works, who should pay

Elizabeth Weise in USA Today doesn’t really answer the who-should-pay question, but does ask, what if it were possible to almost entirely do away with E. coli in ground beef and it would cost only about a penny a burger?

Food-safety experts say it’s entirely feasible with new technologies that have become available. One is a vaccine, the other a feed additive, which, given early enough, could bring down potential E. coli contamination to negligible levels.

The problem, experts in beef safety say, is that the economics are backward. The new interventions have to be administered long before the cattle are slaughtered, when the calves are young or in feedlots where they’re growing.

It’s hard to figure out who should pay for steps that would take place months and possibly years before the grill starts sizzling. The people who’d have to pay for them aren’t the ones who would reap the direct benefits.’’’

These interventions aren’t perfect, but they’re very good, says Guy Loneragan, a professor of food safety at Texas Tech University in Lubbock. "The question is no longer, ‘Can we get the technologies?’ We’ve got them, or they’re soon to arrive. The question is ‘How do we implement?’ "

So far only two small companies appear to be embracing them. One is a tiny feed lot cooperative in Kansas that’s looking to vaccinate all its cattle "soon." The other is a Meade, Kan., cooperative that’s staking its economic life on calling for retailers nationally to demand these interventions from the packers that supply their meat.

The regulatory landscape "is confusing," says Elisabeth Hagen, USDA’s undersecretary for food safety. "But we’re realizing that there’s an issue here and somehow we have to bring everybody together and focus on the end product, the result of which is the safety of the food that goes to the American consumer."

Loneragan says they’ve gone as far as they can after the animal is slaughtered. Now the focus needs to be on ridding the animals of E. coli O157:H7 before they get to the slaughterhouse. The new methods to do that involve:

•A vaccine. The biggest and potentially most game-changing treatment is a vaccine introduced by Pfizer Animal Health in 2010 and given in a three-shot series starting when the calf is just 6 months old. This gets rid of the E. coli O157:H7 bacteria in 85% of the cattle, says Brad Morgan, a senior food-safety specialist at Pfizer Animal Health in Stillwater, Okla. Not only that, but even among the ones that still have the bacteria in the gut, the injections reduce the amount the animals shed in their manure by 98%, he says.

It’s not all or nothing. Pfizer has done studies showing that if only 50% or even 25% of cattle are vaccinated, rates of E. coli are strongly reduced in the feed yard, and therefore in the packing plant. And Harvard’s Hammitt says his research shows that Americans understand that food can’t be "perfectly safe," but they want safer.

The vaccine costs $4 to $6 per animal for the full series, says Loneragan. There are several other vaccines in the regulatory pipeline here and overseas.

•The probiotic. The other intervention is a probiotic added to feed. These are beneficial bacteria cultures that out-compete the more dangerous forms of E. coli in the cattles’ guts, much as yogurt is said to seed the gut with good bacteria to keep out the bad. Many studies have found that using "the right strain at the right dose you can get a fairly predictable 40% to 50% reduction in E. coli O157:H7," says Loneragan.

The American Meat Institute Foundation, the research arm of the meat industry trade group, says there just isn’t enough data yet to know if these treatments work. While there’s been a tremendous amount of research and it looks promising, "We’re right at the cusp of understanding the technology," says Betsy Booren, the institute’s director of scientific affairs.

Last year Cargill, one of the nation’s largest beef producers, conducted a trial of the E. coli vaccine on 85,000 head of cattle at its Fort Morgan, Colo., beef-processing facility, says spokesman Mike Martin at Cargill’s Wichita headquarters.

The trial’s results were "inconclusive," Martin says, in part because the levels of O157:H7 they found on the cattle in general "were the lowest in years . …" There was "very little difference" in rates between the vaccinated and the unvaccinated cattle, he says.

Loneragan says in the studies he’s done, E. coli O157:H7 levels were indeed low but dropped lower in meat from vaccinated cattle.

In the end, it’s going to take movement by the biggest companies to move the industry. There are two that could make this happen in a second, McDonald’s and Wal-Mart, says Chuck Jolley, a meat industry marketing company executive.

"If either decides to require it, the industry will turn around on a dime," he says.