Food fraud: labels and local mean little

Last week, a west Australian egg wholesaler was fined $50,000 in federal court for misleading the public by labeling cartons of eggs as "free range" when they knew a substantial proportion of the eggs were not free range.

Last month, two Arizona residents plead guilty to 13 felony offenses for their roles in purchasing and then re-selling farm-raised Asian catfish and Lake Victoria perch falsely labeled as grouper, sole or snapper; selling foreign farm-raised shrimp falsely labeled as U.S. wild caught shrimp and selling shrimp that falsely claimed to be larger and more expensive than they actually were; and for buying fish they knew had been illegally imported into the United States. Some of the fish tested positive for malachite green and Enrofloxin, both of which are considered health hazards and banned from U.S. food products.

Last fall, the Washington Post reported expensive sheep’s milk cheese in a Manhattan market was really made from cow’s milk, a jar of "Sturgeon caviar" was Mississippi paddlefish, and some honey is diluted with sugar beets or corn syrup, but still market as 100 percent pure at a premium price.

Last year, an NBCLA undercover investigation revealed that some farmers at southern California markets are making false claims and flat-out lies about the produce they’re selling.

NBCLA’s investigation began this summer, when we bought produce at farmers markets across the LA area, and then made surprise visits to farms where we were told the produce was being grown.

We found farms full of weeds, or dry dirt, instead of rows of the vegetables that were being sold at the markets. In fact, farmers markets are closely regulated by state law. Farmers who sell at these markets are supposed to sell produce they’ve grown themselves, and they can’t make false claims about their produce.

We did find plenty of vendors doing just that, like Underwood Farms, which sells produce at 14 markets, all grown on a family farm in Moorpark.

But our investigation also uncovered vendors who are selling stuff they didn’t grow, like Frutos Farms, which sells at seven different farmers markets in LA and Orange counties.

Frutos Farm’s state permit to sell produce at farmers markets says their farm is in Cypress.

NBCLA asked owner Jesse Frutos, "Everything you sell at farmers markets is grown in your Cypress field?"

Jesse responded, "Correct…everything."

But when NBCLA made a surprise visit to the Cypress field listed on its permit, Frutos couldn’t show us most of the produce he was selling, such as celery, garlic, and avocados.

So NBCLA asked, "Do you grow avocados here?"

"Avocados? No, not here on the lot. … That I’ll be honest. That stuff came from somewhere else," Frutos said.

Somewhere else? NBCLA’s undercover cameras followed Jesse’s trucks on farmers market days, and saw him going to the big wholesale produce warehouses in downtown LA.

We saw him loading up his truck, with boxes of produce from big commercial farms as far away as Mexico. He bought many of the types of items we saw him selling at the farmers markets.

After documenting this, NBCLA asked Jesse, "You are selling some things at farmers markets that you didn’t grow, that you got at wholesale produce markets?"

Jesse admitted, "Yes."

By the end of our investigation, we found vendors who make false claims selling at more than two dozen farmers markets.

Food fraud has been around a long time.

A recent paper in the British Food Journal reinforces the idea despite scientific sophistication, rules to control food fraud are only as good as the enforcement that backs them up.

In the egg case, Justice Tony North found the conduct involved a high level of dishonesty and was very difficult to detect because once the eggs were in the cartons it was impossible to determine if they were free range or not.

As today’s society grapples with how best to validate that food is indeed what it says it is — and safe — and as the huskers and buskers emerge with cure-alls, I turn to the words of Madeleine Ferrières a professor of social history at the University of Avignon, France, in Sacred Cow, Mad Cow: A History of Food Fears, first published in French in 2002, but translated into English in 2006:

"All human beings before us questioned the contents of their plates. … And we are often too blinded by this amnesia to view our present food situation clearly. This amnesia is very convenient. It allows us to reinvent the past and construct a complaisant, retrospective mythology."

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Sidewalk meat favored in Iraq; new twist on local is better

In spite of health dangers associated with meat butchered and fed on sidewalks, Baghdad butchers insist their meat is "tasty" and better than imported meat.

Butchers slaughter and sell meat in the open air on Baghdad’s sidewalks, hidden from sanitary controls. Doctors warn about contamination, but butchers defend their meat as healthy and tasty.

And it’s local.

The Kurdish Globe quoted butcher Hassan Sali as he dragged a lamb to slaughter as saying, "It is tasty and also clean. I feed the sheep with alfalfa grass."

But he ignored swarming flies and the stench. Salih does not work in a shop, but on a road side in the middle of Baghdad city. He is not the only one; many butchers operate the same way.

Not caring about expert opinion, the butchers defend their businesses and say they are "trusted" by their clients who see the animal beheaded in front of their eyes. "The danger is too invisible to be seen by bare eyes," said Dr. Kadhim, adding that the sidewalk meat can easily transport fatal diseases, let alone epidemic flues that are appearing.

Wal-Mart to buy more locally grown produce

“No other retailer has the ability to make more of a difference than Wal-Mart.”

That’s what Wal-Mart president and chief executive Michael T. Duke said at a meeting Thursday morning, according to prepared remarks, as he announced a program that would focus on sustainable agriculture among its food suppliers, as the retail giant tries to expand its efforts to improve environmental efficiency.

The program is intended to put more locally grown food in Wal-Mart stores in the United States, invest in training and infrastructure for small and medium-sized farmers particularly in emerging markets and begin to measure the efficiently of large suppliers in growing and getting their produce to market.

The New York Times reports that given Wal-Mart is the world’s largest grocer, with one of the biggest food supply chains, any changes that it makes would have wide reaching implications. Wal-Mart’s decision five years ago to set sustainability goals that, among other things, increased its reliance on renewable energy and reduced packaging waste among its supplies, send broad ripples through product manufacturers. Large companies like Procter & Gamble redesigned packages that are now also carried by other retailers, while Wal-Mart’s measurements of environmental efficiency among its suppliers helped define how they needed to change.

I don’t know anything other than what I’ve read in the media, but it’s a fair guess that food safety culture Frank is going to have a lot to do with making sure any sustainability gains are coupled with enhanced food safety.

Michelle Mauthe Harvey, project manager for the corporate partnerships program at Environmental Defense Fund, said,

“This is huge. Once people are asked those questions, if they haven’t been measuring, they measure more.”

Go big or go home.

Food safety surveys still suck; someone’s making money off crap

In the latest ridiculously expensive survey of Canadians, 77 per cent of Canadians said they were either "very" or "somewhat" concerned with the safety of the food they eat, up from 66 per cent in 2007,

The Ipsos Reid poll conducted for Postmedia News found 87 per cent agree that they trust food that comes from Canada more than food that comes from abroad, with 85 per cent of respondents saying they make an effort to buy locally-grown and produced food.

So, Canadians trust Maple Leaf and their listeria-laden cold cuts more than stuff from other places?

Debbie Field, executive director of the Toronto-based food advocacy group FoodShare, said,

"Even though it seems silly and a bit utopian to imagine small producers being safer, what people like me believe is that it’s true. You’ll always have some problem, you’ll always have contamination, you’ll always have some airborne illness. But if it’s kept local, its impact is much smaller.”

The only way to verify such claims is to assess

Nosestretcher alert: Illinois paper perpetuates stereotypes about local food

The reporters at the Rockford Register Star in Illinois probably meant well, with a feature about the important role of local food inspectors, but they sorta ruin it by beginning the story with:

If you haven’t grown it, cleaned it and cooked your food yourself, you’re eating at your own risk.

It is entirely possible to grow food, and clean it and cook it all by yourself – and completely mess things up and make people barf.

Back to the story, Winnebago County Health Department sanitarians Gail Goldman and Karen Hobbs and four colleagues work to cut the risk of foodborne illness by checking out more than 1,600 establishments such as restaurants, grocery stores, schools, hospitals, nursing homes, gas stations, concession stands and other places offering food and drinks for public consumption.

In 2009, the Health Department’s sanitarians performed 5,109 inspections the most important part of which, Goldman and Hobbs said, was education.

Hobbs said the last thing that made her think she has seen everything on the job was “a towel used to wipe a cutting board and then used to wipe a face. There was quite a bit of education going on that day.”

Small ag, farmer’s markets, conspiracies and trust; show me the data

I started going to the farmer’s market in Guelph, Ontario, Canada, in the fall of 1983. I’d been to other markets, lots of farmers in the family, but for the first time I lived close to a downtown market (right, San Francisco market, 2009). For my third year as an undergraduate university student — what Americans would call my junior year — I had a room that used to be the garage in a semi-detached sorta house and was exceedingly cold in the winter. I lived with a mom and her 8-year-old son, and got free rent in exchange for a couple of hours of child care in the early evenings.

I remained a regular at the market, through to 1988, and enjoyed chatting with farmers, and quickly discovered the best producers were eager and open to discuss any inquiries about their food. When I returned to live in Guelph in 1997, I went to the market a few times but soon soured on the activity. Some of the same producers were there, but the space had largely become a political and gimmick-filled flea market.

There was a new apple guy, who was selling unpasteurized apple cider in the post-Odwalla world, referring to the 1996 outbreak of E. coli O157:H7 in Odwalla juice containing unpasteurized apple cider that sickened 70 and killed a 16-month old in the U.S. He had installed his own microbiology lab on the farm, and was happy to share test results and methodology. That’s the kind of trust I’m looking for.

I’ve been to lots of other markets over the years (left, Toulouse), but find I can get the same shared social space and conversations about food at a supermarket. It’s not trendy, but it’s my experience.

The San Jose Mercury News reports this morning that small, organic farmers like Tom Willey who supplies 800 local families and West Coast retailers with a year-round supply of fresh produce, say stricter food-safety regulations, developed after a cluster of outbreaks of bacterial contamination in spinach and lettuce in 2006, threaten the principles upon which their farms are based.

The story says that Willey already adheres to the voluntary food-safety regulations deemed necessary by the organic farm community. Except organic standards are not food safety standards. Organic is a production system. Food safety is about fewer people barfing.

Trevor Suslow, a food-safety expert and plant pathologist at UC Davis whose research helped form the basis of the California Leafy Green Marketing Agreement, said,

"For the smaller growers, I don’t think it is reasonable to throw up their hands and say it doesn’t apply to us, or we are not the problem or we can never be the problem.”

Suslow also said regulations should be tailored to both the size and the nature of the operation, and that,

"Everybody needs to be doing something, but everybody doesn’t need to be doing the same thing.”

Agreed. I want to know what is being done to control microorganisms that could make people barf on any farm, or anywhere else.

I don’t care if the operation is large or small, organic or conventional, local or global. I care if food makes people sick.

A similar argument is going on in the Canadian province of Saskatchewan, where a provincial draft document outlining new guidelines for public markets has created some of the same faith-based arguments surrounding proposed U.S. legislation. One critic said,

"It will only be a matter of time before all farmers’ markets in Saskatchewan will cease to exist as we know them."

Not so, writes the owner of Lincoln Gardens, located in the Qu’Appelle Valley near Lumsden, Saskatchewan, and who sells at the Regina Farmer’s Market and on the farm.

I welcome any changes that can improve accountability and public safety at the market level. I don’t believe that requiring commercial food processors to follow proper food handling techniques will put Farmers Markets out of business. It is not difficult or expensive to set up a private commercial, certified kitchen. And if a vendor is unable to do so in their own home, due to lack of space, lack of financial resources or they don’t own their home, they are able to obtain the use of a certified kitchen at many community centres, church halls or town offices. that doesn’t seem like such a big deal to me. …

"Our farm encourages all consumers to ask their vendor if they are following proper food safety guidelines, where do they bake, where do they grow, how do they transport the products etc. We have been improving our on farm food safety for several years now. Many of you will remember when Lincoln Gardens transported produce in recycled banana boxes! You may have noticed that we don’t do that anymore…we also provide hand sanitizer to customers at the farm and at the market so that they can avoid cross-contamination. We will continue to look far ways that we can improve the safety of your food. It is too bad that not everyone thinks this is important."

That sounds like the kind of grower I could talk with.

Like the best restaurants, the best farmers and the markets they supply will welcome questions about food safety along with a public disclosure system. The best will even promote their data-driven food safety efforts to build trust with a skeptical public.


 

Nosestretcher alert: Organizations express concern over Food Safety Modernization Act

I don’t care much for all the attention paid to food safety legislation. The stuff that food buyers, suppliers and service folks do every day goes far beyond the endless and mindless chatter about government.

So today, when I read that more than 100 food, agricultural, ranching and consumer groups have signed a letter being distributed to all U.S. Senators urging them to adopt amendments introduced by Montana Senator Jon Tester that would exempt small food processors from the expense and regulatory oversight required by the Food Safety and Modernization Act, I thought, yawn.

The letter says,

“All of the well-publicized incidents of contamination in recent years – whether in spinach, peppers, or peanuts – occurred in industrialized food supply chains that span national and even international boundaries.”

Except that spinach was transitional organic. So the grower was trying to cash in on a production system that has nothing to do with food safety.

“Farmers and processors who sell directly to consumers and end users have a direct relationship with their customers that ensures quality, safety, transparency and accountability.”

Just because I can shake your hand doesn’t mean I know you washed it before you lovingly put your poop-laden fingers all over that tomato you just picked.

Yew.

You serve food, in any form, make it microbiologically safe.

Nosestretcher alert: small farms produce safest food?

Are small farms incompatible with food safety rules?

Deborah Stockton, executive director of the National Independent Consumers and Farmers Association (NICFA), said today,

"Small farms produce the safest food available, without regulation. … Just like family farms brought us out of the Great Depression, they can bring us out of the food safety problem and this recession, if they are allowed to thrive.”

Sounds like someone is compensating for inadequacy issues and responding with exaggeration, like a 50-year-old in a Miata rag-top.

The idea that food grown and consumed locally is somehow safer than other food, either because it contacts fewer hands or any outbreaks would be contained, is the product of wishful thinking.?

Maybe the majority of foodborne outbreaks come from large farms because the vast majority of food and meals is consumed from food produced on large farms. To accurately compare local and other food, a database would have to somehow be constructed so that a comparison of illnesses on a per capita meal or even ingredient basis could be made.

NICFA is gonna lobby Washington, D.C. types and then hold a local foods feast for Congress tomorrow night. I hope no one gets sick – faith-based food safety is a lousy approach.

Local is better mantra

Jim Romahn wrote a column for a newspaper in Waterloo, Ontario, which dared to question the blind support of local produce.

Specifically, Romahn said,

“I have been pleased to watch the development of the movement to buy local food. It is, however, not without its flaws. Farmers need to understand that they must satisfy their customers. Simply marketing their food as local is far from sufficient.”

Romahn provided several examples of local foods that sorta sucked, and several examples of superior product.

“The take-take home message is that the buy local campaigns will fail, and even back-fire, if farmers fail to provide customer-satisfying quality and value.”

Then the letters arrived.

One local produce grower cited Canadian icon Joni Mitchell, “Hey, farmer, farmer, put away the DDT now, give me spots on my apples but leave me the birds and the bees.”

Another said “it’s more fun to shop at farmers’ markets than the big chain grocery stores, anyway. Buying local is a win-win-win situation,” with another chiming in, “I remember when eating locally was the norm and not an option. I don’t profess that it is the perfect solution, but one thing I do know is that when you looked at the horizon it was blue not brown like it is today, and there were fewer people with asthma.”

Romahn didn’t even raise food safety concerns.  That would have generated some real hate mail.

Local food is not inherently safer food

The idea that food grown and consumed locally is somehow safer than other food, either because it contacts fewer hands or any outbreaks would be contained, is the product of wishful thinking.

Barry Estabrook of Gourmet magazine is the latest to invoke the local is pure fantasy, writing,

“There is no doubt that our food-safety system is broken. But with the vast majority of disease outbreaks coming from industrial-scale operations, legislators should have fixed the problems there instead of targeting small, local businesses that were never part of the problem in the first place.”

As soon as someone says there’s “no doubt” I am filled with doubt about the quality of the statement that is about to follow.

Foodborne illness is vastly underreported — it’s known as the burden of reporting foodborne illness. Someone has to get sick enough to go to a doctor, go to a doctor that is bright enough to order the right test, live in a state that has the known foodborne illnesses as a reportable disease, and then it gets registered by the feds. For every known case of foodborne illness, there are 10 -300 other cases, depending on the severity of the bug.??????

Most foodborne illness is never detected. It’s almost never the last meal someone ate, or whatever other mythologies are out there. A stool sample linked with some epidemiology or food testing is required to make associations with specific foods. ??????Newsweek has an excellent article this week about the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and its Disease Detective Camp, where teenagers learn how to form a hypothesis about a disease outbreak and conduct an investigation. The key lies only partly in state-of-the-art technology. At least half the challenge is figuring out the right questions to ask. Who has contracted the disease? Where have they been? Why were they exposed to this pathogen?

Maybe the vast majority of foodborne outbreaks come from industrial-scale operations because the vast majority of food and meals is consumed from industrial-scale operations. To accurately compare local and other food, a database would have to somehow be constructed so that a comparison of illnesses on a per capita meal or even ingredient basis could be made. ???