A magazine study isn’t the same as peer review and just cook it doesn’t cut it: Consumer reports says more bacteria, superbugs in conventional beef than organic

Ground beef from conventionally raised cattle is more contaminated and contains a heavier concentration of antibiotic-resistant bacteria than samples from antibiotic-free and organic or grass-fed animals, a new study shows.

ben-newA report published Monday by Consumer Reports is one of the first of its kind to compare ground beef from the two sources. It found that nearly 20 percent of the beef from cows that finish their lives in crowded feedlots were tainted with superbugs compared with less than 10 percent of the group largely raised on pastures. Conventional samples also had much higher levels of E. coli, an indication of fecal contamination.

“This is really one of the more significant studies showing the difference in prevalence rates based on those production practices,” said Urvashi Rangan, head of food safety at Consumer Reports.

Consumer Reports tested 300 packages or nearly 500 pounds of ground beef that was purchased last October from big box stores and groceries specializing in sustainable products in 26 cities across the country, including Seattle, San Francisco and Los Angeles on the West Coast. The samples included a variety of labels, leanness, packaging and countries of origin. Just over 60 percent of the ground beef was from conventionally produced cattle and the rest came from cows raised without antibiotics that were either organic, grass-fed or both.

At what point can consumers have E. coli levels on labels? These are just catch-phrases.

The samples were tested for five common pathogens associated with beef: E. coli, salmonella, enterococcus, Clostridium perfringens and Staphylococcus aureus.

The North American Meat Institute said, in response to the study’s findings, that the research in fact “confirms strong safety of ground beef,” noting that the results did not report findings of highly pathogenic E. coli or Salmonella.

“A review of Consumer Reports’ new study on the safety of ground beef in the U.S. confirms that pathogenic bacteria is rarely found in meat,” the organization said in a release. “The bacteria identified in the Consumer Reports testing are types that rarely cause foodborne illness. Bacteria such as Staphylococcus aureus, Enterococcus and generic E. coli are commonly found in the environment and are not considered pathogenic bacteria.

“The real headline here is the bacteria that Consumer Reports doesn’t report finding in their testing — Shiga toxin-producing E. coli and Salmonella — which are the foodborne bacteria of greatest public health concern in beef,” said North American Meat Institute Vice President of Scientific Affairs Betsy Booren, in NAMI’s statement.

The National Cattlemen’s Beef Association likewise saw a different picture.

“I have relied on Consumer Reports when purchasing cars and electronics but unfortunately this report will not help consumers when purchasing safe ground beef,” said Mandy Carr Johnson, senior executive director, Science and Product Solutions, for NCBA. “The bacteria found in the Consumer Reports tests are not the type of bacteria commonly associated with foodborne illness in ground beef.”

Said NCBA’s Carr: “The only helpful takeaway from the report for consumers is that all ground beef should be cooked to and internal temperature of 160 degrees Fahrenheit and confirmed with an instant-read meat thermometer, as recommended by the U.S. Department of Agriculture.”

Just cook it doesn’t cut it, and doesn’t deal with cross-contamination. Lower loads.

Use a digital meat thermometer

Consumer Reports gets it only partially right when it says, “for perfect roasts, use a digital meat thermometer.”

barfblog.Stick It InInstead of perpetuating the fairytale that thermometers are only used for roasts, the self-proclaimed bishops of all things consumer should be preaching thermometer use in all kinds of foods.

Consumer Reports tested 46 meat thermometers and found 10 impressive enough to make our top picks list. Spoiler alert: They’re all digital.
 Most of the meat thermometers we tested were accurate within 2 to 4 °F of the reference thermometer and none was more than 5 °F off. Digital models generally performed better and were more accurate, consistent, and convenient to use than analog models. Analog thermometers were often more difficult to read, had the longest response times, and have few if any features. So go digital. 

More pre-washed salad silliness

I hate when I come up with a smart answer long after the opportunity has passed.

A barfblog reader nudged me yesterday regarding the Consumer Reports oh-my-god-there’s-bacteria-in-salad story to say,

“We had a good laugh at the CR story. Note how they merely pointed out that there were bacteria on the ‘RTE’ products they tested. They didn’t bother to find out that—uh oh—they don’t really wash off if you put them under the tap. I tell people not to waste their time; I never wash unless there is gross dirt or debris, and that is only to avoid chipping a tooth.”

Dooh. I knew that. Washing really doesn’t do much when it involves fresh produce. And if Consumer Reports really wanted to validate their study – and their advice to rewash bagged salad, which is still being repeated ad nauseum – they would have washed bagged salad and then run the same tests for bacterial presence.

Somewhere in the deep, dark recesses of my brain there was some recollection of this because, as I told Darla Carter of the Courier-Journal of Louisville, Kentucky, the study was “almost useless to consumers.”

“I can find indicator organisms almost anywhere, so what? … Indicator organisms generally aren’t going to make you barf.”

Powell said washing bagged salad has no proven value and poses the risk of cross-contamination.

“They’re giving advice that’s contrary to what is generally accepted,” he said.
When it comes to ensuring the safety of problematic produce, such as leafy greens, tomatoes and cantaloupe, “the focus has to be on the farm and then all the way through the system,” Powell said. “Prevention is much better.”

And washing doesn’t do much. If only I’d said that at the time.