Thermometers

  • Posted: March 8th, 2010 - 4:32pm by Doug Powell

    There’s a website devoted to all things hamburglery that decided to tackle the question – is it better to only flip a hamburger once or several times on a grill?

    Author J. Kenji Lopez-Alt purports to have tested the 1-flip-versus-multiple flip hamburger by preparing a dozen 1/2-pound burgers into equal-sized patties, seasoned them just before cooking with an equal amount of kosher salt and black pepper, then seared them in a steel skillet pre-heated to 450°F (which was temped with an infrared thermometer before adding the patties). The ambient air in the kitchen was at an unbearably hot 76°F. Each patty was cooked to an internal temperature of 125°F, and was then rested for five minutes at room temperature before being autopsied for examination.

    The author then applied intact beef roast info to ground hamburger which is wrong and dangerous.

    • 125°F (or 51.7°C) is the temperature at which beef is medium rare—that is, hot but still pink, cooked but still moist and able to retain its juices. Any higher than that, and muscle fibers start to rapidly shrink, forcing flavorful juices out of the meat, and into the bottom of the roasting pan.

    Make my burgers a thermometer-verified 160F. They’re plenty juicy and won’t make your guest barf.
     

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  • Posted: January 4th, 2010 - 12:00am by Doug Powell

    Author: 
    Doug Powell

    The Toronto Globe and Mail used to be a decent newspaper. I was enamored with the paper and its journalists as a genetics undergrad, was thrilled when I started writing regularly for the paper in the 1990s, and then dismayed as the amount of crap published began to far outweigh the thoughtful stuf.

    Once such sign of decline was the hiring of columnist Leah McLaren about a decade ago. Chapman was somewhat enamored with her self-indulgent depictions of young female life in hip Toronto; I thought it was bullshit.

    Leah is still at the Globe as it continues its drawn-out decline, and wrote on Saturday that,

    “This year for Christmas I poisoned the in-laws.

    “They had flown all the way from Toronto to spend the holidays in London, dragging several extra bags of gifts across the Atlantic like a modern-day Santa and Mrs. Claus. In return, I had planned a feast for dinner.

    "The centrepiece of the meal was a beautifully aged prime rib roast. I had purchased it, for nearly $100, from my local Notting Hill butcher, who specializes in organic, free-range, ethically farmed beef, lamb and poultry.

    "I don't eat much meat these days, but everything about that shop made me feel safe, from the quaint striped awning to the well-heeled locals queuing up for their premium giblets to the butcher with his starched, white-linen apron making small talk as he trimmed the leg of lamb. Even the store's slogan ("Real meat naturally fed") was heartening. What could possibly be more healthy, comforting or downright trendy than a rib roast for Christmas? As I stepped out of the shop with my several pounds of Grade A flesh in hand, I was determined to follow the butcher's emphatic instructions: "Do not overcook."

    "And I didn't. The prime rib was perfect - except for the 36 hours of stomach-churning misery it caused everyone who ate it."


    Leah’s lesson from all this? Don’t eat red meat.

    One Moses Shuldiner responded with a letter in the Globe today, stating that Leah’s “mistake was to not inform herself of proper food handling techniques as recommended by the Toronto Public Health Department, which can be downloaded from the City of Toronto's website. … After reading information from public health anyone can, for a nominal fee, write the test to become a certified food handler, ensuring mastery of the material.”

    Shill. Mere mortals do not have to become certified food handlers to cook dinner for the in-laws, or anyone else. I cooked lamb on Christmas Eve and my 1-year-old ate it. No one barfed. Use a tip-sensitive digital meat thermometer. Next time, Leah, stick it in.

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  • Posted: January 4th, 2010 - 12:00am by Doug Powell

    Author: 
    Doug Powell

    At the Dallas airport on Jan. 1, 2010, Amy ordered a hamburger while awaiting our flight to London’s Heathrow airport.

    “How would you like that done?”

    “160F please”

    “Does that mean medium-well?”

    Sigh.

    We booked an airport hotel for one night to recover from the trip – and to learn to drive on the wrong side of the road, with a stickshift on the wrong side of the steering wheel, and negotiate the many, many roundabouts.

    We ate dinner in the hotel bar where the only thing on the tele seemed to be … darts.

    Next it was off to Oxford where we spent a quite lovely day and night with a colleague of Amy’s and her husband (above, right). Dinner was baked wild haddock with parsnips, carrots and other roasted veggies.

    Today, we travelled to Newport, Wales, where many of the Powell’s hail from, including my father, grandfather, and others. We visited with a spry 80-year-old Keith Powell (below, left), a son of my grandfather’s brother, and dined at a carvery – a pub offering British fare of turkey, ham or beef carved from an intact bird or roast and served with unlimited roast veggies and other sides. While the food safety possibilities exist with carveries, this one was well-maintained and under the watchful eye of the carverer. Sorenne must have been starving as she gobbled up turkey, and when I refused a bowl for fear Sorenne would throw it at Keith or elsewhere, he asked as I put the meat directly on the high-chair table, “Are you sure that thing’s clean?”

    Must run in the family. When I returned the table-top, the first thing a server did was wipe it down with a cloth soaked in sanitary solution.

    Tomorrow, Cardiff.
     

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  • Posted: December 25th, 2009 - 9:20pm by Doug Powell

    I like potlucks because of the social interaction and sampling different kinds of foods.

    I don’t like potlucks because who knows how various dishes are prepared, how they’ve been stored, and the dreaded double dipping.

    I told Erin Quinn of the Waco Tribune-Herald in Texas Monday that,

    Maybe you don’t want to eat the turkey noodle casserole made in the kitchen of the woman who you notice never washes her hands before leaving the bathroom.

    And maybe you should avoid the pumpkin cheesecake brought by the guy whose shirts are always covered with cat hair.

    “There is a lot of blind trust in it. Potlucks are really popular because they bring people together and do a lot of good things. But all of that fellowship can turn into a lot of sick people.”


    Powell recommends bringing a digital thermometer to potluck parties. He jokes that this is the reason he is hardly invited to potluck parties.

    Still, he said these parties are not inherently riskier than eating at restaurants. And most people, he said, wash their hands properly, have clean kitchens and cook food at the proper temperature.

    Allison Lowery, a spokeswoman for the Texas Department of State Health Services, said she, herself, eats at potlucks and is not too concerned about any risks.

    “You can’t go around being scared of everything. You’ve just got to have faith.”

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  • Posted: December 24th, 2009 - 9:58pm by Doug Powell

    The things you can find on sale at Dillon’s supermarket (part of the Kroger chain) in Manhattan (Kansas).

    For Christmas Eve dinner, which has no special significance other than we made it home from Minnesota before the storm hit, only to get walloped in Manhattan, I decided to cook the lamb – with a rosemary, Dijon mustard glaze, to a yummy and greasy thermometer-verified 140F. Accompanied with roasted potatoes and carrots, along with microwaved asparagus in garlic, olive oil and balsamic vinegar, with whole wheat rolls and a mushroom-fat-free-lamb-stock roux. Served with a 2005 Zinfandel from Napa Valley courtesy of Amy’s Aunt Jean and Uncle Mark.

    Below is Sorenne doing her best Pebbles Flintstone impersonation on a lamb lollipop.

    Nothing like a hot tub in a 15F blizzard to remove the grease and mess and stuff.

    Christmas Day is usually T-bone steaks, but now I have to figure out if they are meat tenderized or not (good luck). More about that later.

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  • Posted: December 18th, 2009 - 3:33pm by Rob Mancini

     

    The last thing I want to do is shut a restaurant down during the Christmas season but when one encounters multiple critical food violations, my hands are tied. An immediate closure was issued on a local restaurant due to improper food holding temperatures, inadequate dishwashing as pots/pans were merely rinsed with water, potential cross contamination issues in the cooler, and the list continues. It is important to note that there was a manger on duty that had successfully completed the food handlers’ course and would therefore in theory be aware of these critical issues. At any rate, I rolled up my sleeves, threw on my hair net and proceeded to physically show the foodservice staff how to properly wash pots/pans via the 3 compartment sink method. Also went over ice baths to rapidly cool foods, preparing sanitizer solutions, and how to use a digital tip sensitive thermometer, supplied by me of course because they didn’t have one. After training on-site, it was up to the staff to show me what they have learned without sitting down and writing an exam, which I feel is pointless.

                A number of Health Departments are consistently struggling with staffing issues resulting in less than par health inspections. I would rather spend the time and perform a quality health inspection by incorporating on-site training rather than being concerned with the quantity of restaurants inspected. 

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  • Posted: December 15th, 2009 - 2:40pm by Doug Powell

    The holidays bring bad food safety advice, and in what’s turning into an annual tradition, it’s time to bash the Brits.

    The Food Standards Agency is hoping to reduce the number of food safety clangers that are served up this Christmas, with its Christmas food safety advertising campaign.”

    WTF is a clanger?

    Oh, Dick van Dyke, is there nothing you can make sound Cockney?

    “The Agency's TV and radio adverts are jovial but have serious underlying messages about the preparation and cooking of turkey:

    don't wash it (you don’t need to)
    defrost it thoroughly
    cook it properly


    That’s terrible grammar; a bulleted list should contain bullets, with semi-colons and an end period. I thought the Brits were serious about this stuff.

    “The Agency’s research has shown that many people wash their turkeys before cooking, with older women the most frequent turkey-washing offenders. But washing meat or poultry can cause harmful food poisoning bacteria to splash on to worktops, chopping boards, dishes and utensils, where they can linger for days.

    “Partially defrosted turkeys are another common festive food safety blunder.”

    This is good stuff: don’t wash the bird, and defrost the thing – notice they don’t say whether it’s OK to do it on the counter or not.

    But then, once, again, with all the food safety communication thingies in the government employ, the best they can come up with is,

    “To ensure that the turkey is cooked properly, make sure it is piping hot all the way through. Cut into the thickest part (between the breast and thigh) to check that none of the meat is pink, and the juices run clear.”

    No. Use a tip-sensitive digital thermometer. Color is a lousy indicator.

    UK chief science thingy, Andrew Wadge, I’ll be in the U.K. Jan. 2 – 10, and I’d be glad to meet with you and your crack food safety risk communication team to talk about turkey prep recommendations.
     

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  • Posted: November 20th, 2009 - 5:17pm by Doug Powell

    The idea of Chapman calling others amateurs is amusing.

    P.J. O’Rourke wrote a National Lampoon column about how amateur drunks throw up on other people’s shoes. In Champan’s case, it would be other people’s rose bushes. That’s us, in 2000, at my house in Guelph. He barfed in the bushes.

    But Chapman, food safety specialist and assistant professor of food science at North Carolina State University, did get quoted by a paper in Nebraska today saying,

    "The biggest risk comes from undercooking. Color is not an indicator of safety or doneness. We see suggestions in recipes about making sure 'the juices run clear' but that's a myth. You also have to worry about cross-contamination -- which can happen when countertops, sinks or utensils aren't being cleaned properly between use with raw meats and other foods."

    And this was Chapman last weekend tailgating at the Kansas State football game. We left early because he had digestive upsets. Amateur.

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  • Posted: October 23rd, 2009 - 12:57pm by Doug Powell

    Jennifer and daughter Ingrid brought the lamb, I did the cooking, and Amy’s mom flew in from Vegas. Another Thursday night in Manhattan (Kansas).

    What better occasion to try out alleged perfect gravy that scientists with the U.K. Royal Society of Chemistry have determined contains drippings from a roast on a bed of halved onions, carrots and celery and the left-over water from boiled cabbage.

    Add salt, pepper and a sprinkling of flour to thicken and …  a touch of soy sauce.

    Dr John Emsley, a chemical scientist, says soy sauce should be used in place of traditional gravy browning because monosodium glutamate from the soy sauce brings out the meaty flavour.

    A spokesman for the society said:

    “Chemistry and cooking are basically the same thing. Both need to have the correct formula, equipment and procedures. Just think of Heston Blumenthal.”

    Eww. Blumenthal makes me think norovirus and barf.

    And I didn’t take pictures of Thursday’s dinner, but Top Chef on Wed. night also struggled with lamb, and none of the hot-shot chefs could agree on how to define medium-rare lamb.

    Chef Kevin (left):

    “We’re having temperature issues with the lamb. What I think of as medium-rare, is apparently what she thinks of as rare. I don’t know who’s right or wrong, I don’t know if there is anyone who is right or wrong.”

    The judges knew:

    “This was seared raw lamb that was horrible.”

    “Severely underdone.”

    “Center was like jello.”

    “A little too bloody.”

    The lamb shoulder roast we had last night was cooked to 140F. There’s even a chart on the Internet that says medium-rare lamb is 140F. I have no idea where the numbers on the chart came from, but it seems about right.

    Genius chefs and judges: use a tip-sensitive digital thermometer and stick it in.

    The gravy was delicious.

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  • Posted: October 16th, 2009 - 2:24pm by Rob Mancini

     

    Digital tip sensitive thermometers are as important to a chef as espresso is to m wife and I. While inspecting a fast food restaurant which serves predominantly burgers, I noticed the chef relying solely on color to determine doneness of burgers. As mentioned time and time again on barfblog, color is not a reliable tool to determine doneness of burgers due to premature browning of meat which may result before the burger reaches 160°F, the temperature required to inactivate pathogens such as E. coli 0157 H:7. Studies have demonstrated that burgers cooked to 135°C and allowed to sit for a few minutes looked the same as a burger cooked to 160°C. After explaining this concept to the chef, the response was well I cook the burger on high heat until it pretty much looks charred. Oh “that’s a deal breaker.” I have been dying to use this catch phrase from 30 Rock for sometime now. I went on to explain what happens when meat is cooked at high temperatures to a point of charring. A chemical change can occur in the meat resulting in the formation of heterocyclic amines (HCA’s). To prevent this from occurring, one can lower the temperature used for grilling and flip patties continually. The use of tongs or spatulas should be used to flip meat as a fork will puncture the meat causing juices to run causing flame ups which are responsible for polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, a carcinogenic compound2. It is interesting to note that marinades and spices may reduce the amount HCA’s found in the meat. The addition of spices such as rosemary, thyme, sage, and brine, reduced the content of HCA’s below 60% when compared to a control1. It is always a good idea to scrape off any parts of the meat that are charred. Finally, always use a digital tip sensitive thermometer to determine if your burger is done 71°C (160°F).


    Sources:

    1. Antioxidant spices reduce the formation of heterocyclic amines in fried meat
    M. Murkovic, D. Steinberger and W. Pfannhauser
    Volume 207, Number 6 / November, 1998

    2. Environmental Health Services. Food Council News. Volume 4 Issue 3. May 2001. Capital Health




     

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